If you are yet to catch up on some of the previous posts on Beauty Glossiping, I’ll give you the drum: I love me a smokey eye. No shame here.
Not only do I love the effect, but I also love that there is such a wide variety of techniques that can be used create a smokey eye look. One that I have recently been gravitating towards, as seen in a similar fashion here, is to map out the wing shape using a dark shade and then blend it out.
Being blessed with hooded eyes, this is an excellent technique to add a lot of depth to the eye using a precision method. I find that if I try to add depth with just eyeshadow it can look too blown out and defeat the purpose of deepening the crease.
For this look I opted to use very warm shade to blend out a rather cool tone brown in the crease.
How I created this look
Step 1: Apply Eye Base + Brow Bone Highlight
The staple way to begin each smokey eye is to apply a base to the eyelid. I dab MAC Soft Ochre on with my finger. I also like to apply any white or bone coloured eyeshadow to the high points of the brow bone as a highlight; this helps as a guide to where I should blend up to.
Step 2: Add Transition Shade To The Crease
Using a shade 1-2 shades darker than your skin tone (I like to use a bronzer as it has a nice amount of warmth and should be slightly darker than your skin tone), apply to the crease blending all the way up. I used NYX Matte Bronzer and a MAC 224 Blending Brush.
Step 3: Apply Brown Eyeliner In Cat Eyeliner Shape
Using a creamy brown kohl pencil, map out the cat eyeliner shape, going all the way into the inner eye. This does not have to be perfect, but try to keep the lid part fairly crisp. I used Smashbox Always Sharp Waterproof Kohl Liner in “Sumatra”.
Step 4: Guide Liner 1/3 Of The Way Into The Crease
At the tip of the cat eyeliner, bring the line up onto the crease and towards the inner eye. If you have hooded eyes, keep this line high enough so that when your eyes are open you can still see the shape.
Step 5: Blend Out Using Warm Shade
Using a rich warm shade, begin blending out the brown eyeliner using a pencil brush and small detailed brush (I used a MAC 219 Pencil Brush + Sigma E47 Shader Brush) Apply with the pencil brush and blend out with the shader brush. Repeat. I used an old Napoleon Colour Disc that I think has been discontinued, but a similar shade is Tequila Sunrise. At this stage, if it is looking like it isn’t working, persevere – I promise it will.
Step 6: Blend Down Using Brown Shades
Using a mix of a cooler brown and a warmer brown, take small amounts of the brown on a brush and gradually bring the colour down, blending it into the Tequila Sunrise shade as you do so. I like to go between the darker browns and the red-based brown to make a seamless transition. For this step I used MAC Sketch + MAC Brown Down and a Sigma E45 Small Tapered Blending Brush.
Step 7: Blend, Blend, Blend
Taking the holy grail blending brush, a MAC 217, keep blending to ensure the Sketch/Brown Down colours are blended into the Tequila Sunrise shade. Once you are happy with the blending, ensure there is a smooth transition between Tequila Sunrise and the NYX Bronzer. My general rule is: blend until your arm gets sore – and when you think you’re done, KEEP GOING!
Step 8: Apply Shimmer Shade To Lid
To pull the look together, take a warm shimmer shade and apply it to the lid. I used a NYX Single Eyeshadow in “Pixie”. I wanted this shade to be very opaque, so I spritzed MAC’s Fix+ onto my MAC 239 Eyeshader Brush. You can also use eye-drops for this step – what it does is helps the eyeshadow look more vibrant on the eye. You may need to touch up the brown eyeliner on your lid after this step.
Step 9: Apply Brown Eyeliner To Lower Lashline
Take the brown kohl eyeliner onto the lower lash line and blend down using MAC Sketch and MAC Brown Down. I go between using the MAC 219 Pencil Brush and Sigma E45 Tapered Blending Brush.
Step 10: Blend Out Using Warm Shade
Taking the Tequila Sunrise shade, use the MAC 217 Blending Brush to softly blend out the edges. Don’t be afraid to blend this down fairly low – it will be balanced out by the makeup on the top of the lid and won’t look as ridiculous as it feels when you are doing it.
Step 11: Apply Mascara + Lashes
Finally, coat your top and bottom lashes with mascara. I then applied the Model Rock “Trend de Fab” lashes to complete the look.
Things I Put On My Face
- Chanel Le Blanc De Chanel
- L’Oreal Paris Infallible Matte Priming Base
- L’Oreal Paris Base Magique Transforming Smoothing Primer
- L’Oreal Paris Infallible Matte Foundation in “24 Golden Beige”
- LA Girl Cosmetics Pro Concealers in “Toast” (for contour), “Classic Ivory” and “Creamy Beige” (for highlighting)
- L’Oreal Paris Eau de Soleil for cream bronzing
- Tarte Mamacuja Crealess Concealer in “Light Sand” for concealing
- Face of Australia Loose Translucent Powder
- Models Prefer Soft Touch Mineral Powder in “Soft Focus” and “Radiant Bronze”
- NYX Matte Bronzer in “Light”
- MAC Sculpting Powder in “Emphasize”
- MAC Prep and Prime Fix+ Spray for setting
- NARS Blush in “Orgasm”
- MAC Mineralize Skinfinish in “Soft and Gentle”
- Face of Australia Mineral Therapy Face and Body Illuminator in “Angel Blush”
- Anastasia Dipbrow Pomade in “Blonde” (front half) and “Auburn” (tail)
- Anastasia Brow Powder in “Taupe”
- Australia Tinted Brow Gel in “Blonde”
- Australis Lip Pencil in “Tickled Pink”
- Model’s Prefer Lipstick in “Nude”
- Gerard Cosmetics Lipgloss in “Nude”
I really like the dimension of this look; there is warmth, depth and shimmer and it somehow all comes together. There is absolutely some additional effort involved in using the kohl pencil to define the crease, but it is these little details that take this look to the next level.
I hope you enjoyed this look x